As I dust off my old rusty keyboard and begin composing my first article in well over a year and a half, I am sure that my reappearance will cause all sorts of uproar in bars, parlors, and lounges across the world. “Where did the Raven go for so long?” “I heard he joined that expedition to Antarctica to reclaim Shackleton’s whisky.” “I thought he was lost in the jungle during the search for the mysterious Amazonian Martini Flower.” And so on – the speculation continued, until I was but a memory, my correspondences tucked away in some digital file, while my fellow cocktalians continued to bring stories from around the world.
Alas, my story is considerably less interesting than that. For the last year and a half I have been completing my MBA, which I am happy to say is now earned (though not yet earning, if you get my drift), and I have finally the time and energy to begin writing again. I can’t guarantee you’ll see me monthly, but as I come across subjects of interest, I’ll pass them along to Dan and the folks at Bar None Drinks. (Hopefully he’ll still publish me!)
To mark my triumphant return to cocktail writing, I am bringing to you a new product (new in the same sense that Columbus discovered the “New World”) which came to me from the good folks at Phenix Brands out of Kansas City, MO. I think sometime during my absence it became proper or required to disclose when the product I’m reviewing was provided free of charge by the producer, which this bottle did. (I do have to wonder how many reviewers regularly buy the products they’re reviewing, or how many readers assume that there is some bias ascribed to a company that gives samples to reviewers. I mean, really? But I digress…three paragraphs into my review, and you don’t even know what the product is yet.)
Samogon is a clear liquor that tops out at a hefty 90 proof. The initial nose is a combination of vodka and tequila, though there is a distinct undertone of a heady red wine. I think it notable that the liquor actually smells warm, which is not an easy experience to explain; I’ve left the bottle out all night in my chilly apartment, the glass is cool to the touch, but the Samogon smells warm. As a clear spirit coming from an old Soviet Bloc country, you could be forgiven for expecting it to taste like vodka (read: nothing) but Samogon does have a slightly sweet flavor profile. The initial harshness of the alcohol, unavoidable in a 90 proof liquor, is quickly mellowed into what can only be described as a fruity dragon that fills the entire mouth. Even a small sip leaves me with the feeling that I could breathe fire, but it would be a very pleasant smelling flame. Samogon has the same earthy aftertaste that I find when drinking tequila (which is, unfortunately, one of the reasons I don’t drink tequila. I know other people do, so I try to relate the facts when I come across that flavor), though it is only at the very end of the quaff, and isn’t so pronounced.
Samogon is marketed as an entirely new base spirit (in the United States), though most enthusiasts will quickly recognize its similarity to grappa (the bottle does in fact identify it as Russian Grappa). It is produced by distilling the remnants of wine making – seeds, skins, and stems generally – which is what gives the spirit its distinctive flavor. Traditionally consumed as a room-temperature shot, the folks over at Phenix have worked with American mixologists to develop new cocktail applications. I’ve tried to whip up a few with mixed results (If you’ll pardon the pun). I would recommend trying them yourself before passing judgment.
As long-time readers know, I’m generally a brown spirits kind of guy (new readers take note). Samogon certainly has its charms, and I would choose it over virtually any vodka, and most gins; high praise indeed coming from a whiskey/rum drinker. A not insignificant part of me wants to put this bottle on oak for a few years and see what develops. (Hannah, are you listening?) I’ll be keeping this bottle to share with my wine and tequila drinking friends, as I sense it may be a bridge between them. Whether or not this will make it into my personal rotation is yet to be seen. Of course, there is the little issue of distribution: Samogon is currently available in only three states, and none of them are mine.
I sincerely hope you’ve enjoyed reading this, and I hope you’ll drop by the blog and leave a comment.
Until next time,
The Raven.
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